ABS: Electronic Tips - - Motor Age - Automotive training, certification & parts info
ABS: Electronic Tips

Source: Motor Age



A few teeth on this WSS exciter ring are not clean and are damaged. This led to false activation.
What sets modern antilock braking systems (ABS) apart from conventional, hydraulic brakes is their electronic controls. Often, barely-measurable amounts of current can make the difference between full antilock brake systems (ABS) functionality and a tough-to-diagnose problem. Here are some tips — some general, some specific — that are worth remembering when servicing ABS electronics.

See the light


However, the teeth on the WSS exciter ring are clean and undamaged.
Stop lamps aren't just for letting following drivers know a vehicle is decelerating. In some ABS control schemes, the microprocessor finds out there's a "brake apply request" by detecting a voltage drop as current begins running through those lights. But voltage won't drop in an incomplete circuit — like when bulbs are burned out. Some systems set up this way monitor voltage drop to the stoplights in the taillights; others work with the center high-mount stop lamp (CHMSL). Some use them all. In any event, make sure all glow.

There's a related scenario when a seemingly brake-unrelated vehicle modification can cause antilock brake glitches: adding a rear spoiler with an additional third brakelight. It could cause voltage drop to vary beyond what the ABS computer is looking for. (As if that weren't enough, federal regulations frown on having redundant CHMSLs — even though you see cars with an extra third brakelight every day.) You and the customer may have to decide which light to disconnect, especially if the extra current load causes the ABS to malfunction.


A professionally performed solder splice is the best way to repair a wire. Shrink tubing with internal sealant will insulate the connection.
Speaking of lights, the telltale lamps on the instrument panel do more than let the motorist know their foundation or antilock brakes need service. How and when they glow can help you troubleshoot malfunctions.

Hard or soft?


Some manufacturers once called for the entire underhood harness to be replaced if the lead heading to a WSS was damaged. Today many allow splices if properly executed.
A hard code indicates a present condition and will remain (or recur) even if you clear it, unless you fix its underlying cause. A soft code indicates a problem that may have existed before, but isn't there currently. However, clearing a soft code doesn't necessarily mean you'll never see it again. If the condition it represents is intermittent, the code will come back when the condition comes back.


Ford wrapped the harnesses on some Crown Victorias so tightly (Ford conduit) that any trapped moisture couldn't escape.
Once you've repaired a condition represented by a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) and cleared the code from memory, interrogate the system at least once more. Here are two good reasons why. First, you'll verify that the code is gone; and also, because some systems are capable of displaying only a limited number of codes at once, you may see one or more additional DTCs that weren't evident previously. They're not new, they just didn't become accessible until codes further up the conga line were displayed, their causes fixed, then cleared.


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